Thailand

Thailand rocks.

I took my first vacation out of the Philippines this past week, and with 2 other PCVs went to visit Thailand. We spent a week in Bangkok, Sukhothai, and Chaing Mai, and I left feeling thoroughly rejuvenated. See details below.


July 2, 2011
Arrived past midnight to a different world. Bangkok, Thailand.

Our hostel was located in Sukhumvit, the area notorious for it's high concentration of ex-pats. Yet compared to Manila, Bangkok seems to do the COW (Creepy Old White-guy) in a nearly classy form. We went for a celebratory Chang beer at 2am to the only bar still open the day before the day-before national elections. Turned out to be infested with COWS. Yikes.

Late to bed meant late to rise, especially with 3 late-sleepers. Woke late and packed out things to explore the city. First Thai lunch- antsy to try my first real pad thai. Taste buds thoroughly pleased. Thrilled for the noodles, curries, seafoods, and sticky rice treats of the next week!

First thought? It is clean here. Expecting a place similar to Manila, I quickly realized that I would be disappointed by lack of similarity. In short, Bangkok is clean, organized, calm, polite, efficient, the list goes on... everything that Manila is not. We spent the day wandering through Wat Pho, Wat Arun, and other famous Wats, eating our way around the city, watching the monks go about their quiet business, and experiencing all the modes of transport, including the Chao Phraya Express boats that go up and down the Chao Phraya River.







Communication is another thing. We managed to somehow get around knowing only "sawatdee ka" and "khap khun ka." Hello and thank you. Thai is difficult, and considering Thailand is one of few countries that escaped colonization, English is kept to a minimum.

My senses are having a ball here. So much to see, hear, smell, taste... National elections are tomorrow, meaning no alcohol served tonight. Thus, early bed time for us!


July 3, 2011
We took a tour today of the Damnoensaduak Floating Market today. Facsinating. Paddling along a canal or "klong" are dozens and dozens of wooden boats boasting local fruits, vegetables, noodles dishes. On the banks are platforms for vendors selling handicrafts, clothing, souvenirs, you name it. What a stunning picture to be floating down a canal, steaming bowl of noodles onlap, our old boat driver chuckling as he steers past fresh young coconut vendors and women selling lychee, mango, bananas, men barking promises of a good price. Best meal so far, that 30 baht (about 1 US dollar) bowl of noodles.







Tried to see some more Wats, but arrived late from the market. Did manage to get to Wat Trimvit and see the 5.5 ton solid gold Buddha, before the clouds burst open with a late afternoon rain. We ducked into an eatery just in time and drank our Singha beers as we watched the child monks walking past, school bags on shoulders.

Sluggish after that rain. Dragged ourselves back to Suk 11 hostel via Chao Phraya Express and train, for some delicious cashew chicken before another early night. Bangkok, you exhaust us! Sukhothai tomorrow!

July 5, 2011
We spent the 4th of July traveling, but it was worth the journey to arrive in Sukhothai that night. We spent the day exploring the Old City of the Sukhothai kingdom in north-central Thailand. Great fun pedaling our street bikes around centuries-old Wats and ruins, enjoying the exercise and the fresh air.







Another incredible spicy thai noodle lunch at a street vendor. Surprised by how developed the Sukhothai area is- a big town with a hefty supply of tourists and small businesses. And yet, it is another world from the Philippines. The streets are clean, the vendors and tuk-tuk drivers non-hassling. Even the dogs look fat, happy, and most surprisingly, well cared for, in sharp contrast to the Philippines.

Chiang Mai tomorrow!

July 7, 2011
Today was elephant day. Well, elephant morning. For the first time since arriving (well second if we count that terrible bar...), I feel a mix of emotions bordering on sadness and anger. Maesa Elephant Camp. I am torn. Protection from poachers, endless food, shelter, recreation, bathing. Great. But performing shows 3 times a day? Jungle treks carrying foreigners, one after another? And how many tourists! Far too many people. No wild animal should become so accustomed to people that it doesn't buck and roar when a child runs along its feet. I don't think... Although it wasn't the haven I had hoped and imagined, riding an elephant was pretty cool, and having it snatch bananas and sugar cane from my hands was even cooler. I recommend Elephant Nature Park instead- for those with more money than us silly volunteers- an actual sanctuary for the giant creatures.







Best part of the day and possibly the trip so far was visiting Wat Chedi Luang to chat with a monk. "Monk Chat," as they call it, is an opportunity for monks to practice their English and engage in a cultural exchange with tourists and foreigners. Buddhism is a beautiful philosophy: a rejection of all things non peaceful and unloving, and a balance between wisdom and faith. The monk we talked with was shy but his English was terrific despite endearing mistakes in pronunciation. He was curious about our American "commoner" life. Namely, "Are you still single?" he asked with a giggle.

At 6:00 he promptly got up from the table, as if he would turn into a pumpkin, to resume his evening schedule. A rigid and restrictive schedule, waking at 4 or 5am every day to collect alms, one or two 2 meals per day, hours of prayer, chanting and meditation, followed by an afternoon of studying the teachings of Buddha and of course time to take care of the area around the Wat compound. But, as our friend insisted, "My parents are so proud."

We passed some child monks sitting on benches on our way out, watched for a moment as they joked and pushed one another, still children despite the robes. Novice or child monks play a role in cleaning and serving the monks, in between prayer and studying. Being a novice serves as a way to receive a proper education, and novices can become ordained once they reach age 20. I resisted the urge to scoop one up and give him a great hug of admiration.



We rounded out an excellent day with a famous Thai massage at a blind massage center, which more closely resembles a hard chiropractic stretch rather than a relaxing massage. Still, my body felt like air when we left. A perfect feeling for a night out on the town. After yet again an amazing meal, we wandered to the Chiang Mai night bazaar for a chance to purchase the beautiful Thai crafts and souvenirs, while getting lost in the adorable, artsy city of Chiang Mai.

July 8, 2011
Our final morning was spent well at a Thai Cooking Class, where we learned hands on how to prepare 3 Thai dishes and a delicious fried banana dessert. Along with a dozen others, we sizzled our way to tender chicken fried rice, spicy green curry, and savory cashew chicken. Yum Yum Yum!!! Demonstrations upon request!









*Summary notation: From the organized bustle of Bangkok to the fresh feel of Sukhothai, to the wondrous, quaint, exciting city of Chiang Mai, yeah, I pretty much love Thailand.